October 20th — For 10 years Manuel lived in San Juan, Argentina selling insurance. Four years ago he decided that that wasn’t the life for him. He sold all of his accounts and closed his office. He was a windsurfer, and while San Juan was just 199 kilometers from some of the best windsurfing in the world, it was 199 kilometers too far.
Manuel moved to Rodeo, a mountain town of less than 2000 people. It was a town without a movie theater, a bank, or even a single taxi. It did, however, have something special. In 1998 the government built a dam to generate hydroelectric power and improve irrigation from the Andean snow melt. Unfortunately, the hydroelectric project has been a failure. The dam does ensure a reliable supply of water to the city of Jachal 44 kilometers to the east, but it hasn’t been as useful for irrigation as had been anticipated.
What the dam did do beautifully was create a lake 5800 feet above sea level, right in the middle of some of the most reliable winds in the world. Along the southern shore is Playa Lamaral, the best beach on the lake. While it lacks the sand of coastal beaches it more than makes up for it with spectacular views of the snow capped Andes that feed the lake and the ridged brown foothills to the northeast.
Playa Lamaral is the spot that Manuel had scoped out as the best beach in his endless visits to the dique, both during construction of the dam and in the years immediately after. The beach was just a few hundred kilometers down the road from the enormous farmhouse that Manuel leased and turned into the Hostel, Rancho Lamaral. He knew this was going to be a special area, and he had the forethought to get some of the best real estate. The area is known as Cuesta Del Viento.
Manuel caters to a mix of windsurfers, fans and travellers on a budget looking for something different, and he does so really well. Soyan and I spent 4 terrific days here learning to windsurf in the relative calm of the mornings and watching the expert windsurfers put on a show when the big winds came out, late each afternoon. We also met a pair of travellers from Buenos Aires taking a break from camping and enjoying the laidback lifestyle at Rancho Lamaral. It is hard to camp when you can sleep in a bed with clean sheets, take a hot shower, watch a movie from the large video library and get breakfast included for just $15.00 pesos ($5.00 USD) a night.
Beyond windsurfing there is horseback riding, rafting and caves to explore, but having been away from work for a while now I chose to spend my time differently. I spent a few hours in a strategy session with Manuel where he and I designed some windsurfing packages. Then I set to work on a Spanish language and an English language a flyer for Rancho and Playa Lamaral. I also put him in touch with another entrepreneur who runs a nice hostal in Mendoza. You can take the entreprenuer out of the business, but not the business out of the entrepreneur.
If you like to windsurf or you are just looking for something different, now you really can windsurf in the Andes.
Here are some photos:
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