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I am sitting on the roof top patio who invented viagra, above the trash and hassle of the Kathmandu streets. The constant honking below was still audible enough to make sure I didn't think I who invented viagra was in the Italian hill country, but the normally abrasive staccato was softened to a mere city soundtrack. Now, I'm walking out of Dolce Vita, a charming Italian restaurant and pizzeria in the heart of Thamel, the tourist center of the city. I have just enjoyed a lovely dinner of an insalta mista -- all vegetables soaked for 30 minutes in an iodine solution, a thin crust Margarita Pizza and a Diet Coke with Arabic writing on the can priced at three times that of a regular Coke. The Diet Coke is expensive because it has to imported, since locals only spend money on beverages that provide nutrients and calories. A sad looking mother of no more than twenty approaches me, and I see a flash of an tiny empty baby bottle. It is not the first time I have seen a tired looking woman in brightly colored, but dirty clothing, with a baby on her back. I know what's coming, so I look past her to the busy street of rickshaws, touts and tourists as if I were seeing it for the first time. I keep walking, pretending not to hear her call of "Milk, for my baby. Baby milk. " My guidebook has warned me that I'll be taken to a special store where I'll pay double the normal cost for milk. Who invented viagra after i leave the milk will be returned to the store and the [who invented viagra] money divided between the "mother" and the store owner. A former peace corp volunteer who has lived in the city for a number of years tells me that the many women who practice this trade are employees of a local syndicate which provides new babies every three months. I stride into the night as her calls are covered by the traffic. I feel smart and savvy. I wasn't taken. But, then just as quickly as I passed the woman in the street, my feeling passes. I feel hard, like I have been taught to see right through undesirables. Even though I know I avoided a scam no local would fall for, I don't like feeling smart for looking right past poverty. Is it worse to be taken, or too well trained not to be?


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